Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi share with us the original print that was blown up many fold to create the patterns for Preen’s SS 2012 collection.
There were six of them in Erdem’s show, Sophie Hallette lace boaters in yellow, rose, whites, black and lilac. No need for an occasion, they look quite good and fun with silk pyjamas.
Now that the madness if over, here’s one last little surprise. We were lucky enough to hang out with Mary Katrantzou post-show behind the scenes. No doubt, every collection has its share of unexpected elements (Balenciaga benches!) but it’s best when discussed in good fun. As Jason Wu told us at the start of the season, “It’s so important for people to have a sense of humor.” Here we go…
“I said to myself, I would never touch flowers and fish,” says Mary Katrantzou sitting amidst her Spring/Summer 2012 collection, covered with whole lot of flowers and fish. “The theme scares me.” Lucky for us, she decided to conquer this fear by balancing the flora and fauna with some hard edged manmade elements. Inspired by John Chamberlain, Katrantzou threw in crushed cans as both prints and oversize paillettes hand sewn to 3D pieces. The dress must have been heavy for the model, but it made it down the runway swinging all the while. The same cannot be said for the beaded and embellished spats that Katrantzou had created with Christian Louboutin for the shoes. “I wanted it to look like she’d stepped in a field of flowers,” she says. Stylist Jane How was on board with this until fitting the girls. “‘Mary, they can’t move!’” Katranzou says repeating How’s reaction as one of the models tried to lift her leg. And so, there were no spats. Just as there were no futuristic opening cylinders as part of the David White set. When one of the metallic tubes didn’t work during rehearsal, it was decided that it would be best not to use them at all. In sum, we got a colorful standout collection without any unnecessary drama. How unusual for fashion.
Oh, and one more thing, we’ve overheard that its not only the girls ordering the suits this season… it’s the boys, as well. Evidence attached.
“They were dipping everywhere in the sauces,” Roksanda Ilincic says laughing as she examines the bell sleeve of one of her Spring/Summer 2012 looks for any signs of dinner. The show’s stylist, Victoria Young, wore the flourescent pink dress out to sushi with the designer just days ago when they both arrived to Paris. Ilincic’s in town for sales appointments. She’s staying on the Right Bank with her 14 month old daughter, Efimia, and property developer husband, right nearby one of the city’s oldest bakeries. “It’s my destination every morning,” says the 35-year old Serbian designer who stops in for a pastry before heading to her showroom on rue de Mail. We met here prior to stepping out for tea. There was some serious buying happening when I arrived, which involved a debate on what exactly to call the shape of a trumpet skirted dress and those famous tulip sleeves. However you call them, everyone wants them. “The collection used to be about things I personally loved,” Ilincic says. “Now, it’s also about women, in general. I build relationships not just with editors, but also buyers.” She’s smart (holding an MA in fashion and architecture) and understands the importance of fostering a business. These dual degrees may prove useful when she decides to open shop in London, perhaps somewhere on South Audley Street. For now, though, its about next season’s silhouettes, many paired with slouchy hand knit silk hats, which she lovingly calls “grunge couture.” Would she ever want to show elsewhere than London? “When the time’s right I have my eye on…” she starts and then looks down. Paris? She nods. Here we are, sitting at a sidewalk cafe discussing this and other important matters. Back to the sleeves. “Just don’t say lampshades, I hate when people call them that.”